Wine Review: Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel (California)
My review of Gnarly Head Old Vine Zinfandel.
Let’s stay in California for another edition of affordable drinkable wines. Chances are, you’ve seen the zesty zin all over the place, from your local grocer to the sale rack at any liquor store. I’ve seen it in casino gift shops in Las Vegas and 7-11s in Montana.
Gnarly Head is one of the hundreds of unpretentious daily “go to’s” out of California very much in the Mark West basket of impression and value (see my previous review).
Tasting notes: “Crafted from grapes from 35 to 80-year-old vines. Rich, dark berry flavors from the small grape clusters are balanced with French, American, and Hungarian oak. Luscious layers of plum, pepper, and chocolate provide a lingering and spicy finish.”
Old Zinfandel vines date back to the early 1900s when Italian immigrants settled in the Lodi area and first planted Zinfandel. “Old” vines get used a lot in labeling today; generally, this applies to vineyards that have been around for many decades. However, the vast majority of those vineyards have changed hands over the years, and many new winemakers have sprung up. Gnarly Head began production in 2004, and I’ve been drinking them almost since inception.
There are far better zinfandels on the market, especially for the money. With zins, I tend to want to spend a little more, because I really enjoy the power of this varietal. But there’s no crime in drinking a bottle of wine on the cheap and at $7.50 a bottle and found almost everywhere, this is a bottle I’ve turned to as an old friend in the middle of places that don’t have wine stores.
One warning. This wine doesn’t age well. It’s meant to be consumed within 2-8 years (I’m giving this wide latitude). I opened this hidden treasure today and noticed lots of sentiment (not a bad thing), but also a brown color, and some mustiness. When I looked at the vintage, it was 2009. So, at 11 years this was a wine that had passed its time.
Alc. percentage registers at 13.8, a little low for comparable zins, I tend to like the burst of fruit in the 14.5 alcs. and up. While not always a reliable indicator, it’s advisable to check that number on the bottle when purchasing zins. If you find a 15. and up, it’s usually a knock-your-socks-off fruit bomb, which characterizes so many California wines, particularly down near Paso Robles. But now, I’m getting ahead of myself — a special section of reviews coming up later on the Paso Robles wines.
Grade (100 point scale): 88
Value: (10 point scale): 7
Price: $7.50
Recommended: Yes (when pickings are limited, but there are better wines at this price point)
So, what other old vice Zins are better than Gnarly Head at this price point? I’m very partial to good Zins for under $10. My Sicilian grandfathers made barrels of excellent Zin every October Thank you.
NOLAN REPLIES:
I love Cline wines (California). They have an Old Vines wine that’s spectacular, which runs about $12 a bottle. Other “Old Vines” seem to be priced similarly. Other than Gnarly Head, for under $10 I recommend Bogle and Ravenswood.
— ND
My comment is “Awaiting moderation”? I’m confused. Was I not clear?
I am familiar with the Zins you mention. I like Cline and Bogle as well.