Tasting John Malkovich: Wine Review — Les Quelles de la Coste, a.k.a. LQLC (France)

Tasting John Malkovich
Wine Review: Les Quelles de la Coste, a.k.a. LQLC (France)

When I launched this “12 bottles in 12 Days” writing (and drinking) project, I had no idea of the journey in store, nor the surprises ahead.

The problem with this journey is, the more I learn about wine, the more I learn about how little I actually do know about wine. Like physics or religion, the deeper one dives, the more confused things become.

One of many voids in my wine resume is French-grown and produced Pinot Noir. I’ve become near hopelessly blinded to Old World cloaks from Loire and Rhone, punctuated by a hearty soft spot for Alsace — three grand wine regions that have drenched my palate for many years with more intensity than a California mudslide. Hence, when I do buy Pinots, I tend to look at selections from this side of the ocean, notably to stately Oregon and other American growers in the Pacific Northwest. As I said, this is a void.

The Les Quelles de la Coste Pinot Noir, more simply known as “LQLC” (that’s stamped on the label in giant letters) was an intriguing departure from my straightjacket, and ultimately a divine exploration. LQLC’s modernist presentation aims to satisfy French-loving loyalists and to win over new palates and converts, bringing the proven winemaking traditions of the old into a contemporary global age. Credit the two well-known winemakers for their investment, belief, and collective vision.

While researching LQLC, I was surprised to learn this wine comes straight from the vineyard of famed actor John Malkovich, who co-owns the estate and production line along with his long-term partner, film director Nicoletta Peyran. Years ago, the couple relocated to Luberon, located in the heart of the Provence region, dotted with quaint towns and villages. It’s about as un-Hollywood as a place can get.

Malkovich could have easily gone the gimmicky route with production and marketing, taking advantage of his celebrity and quirky appeal to audiences worldwide as something of an eccentric. Other actors have taken these shortcuts, and their wines (and liquors) usually suffer from it. Fortunately, instead of taking shortcuts, Malkovich opted for a long-term approach and utter authenticity, which makes LQLC a wine to be judged and enjoyed purely on its own merits (note: actually, it’s wines-plural, since LQLC makes four varietals).

READ MORE ABOUT HOW MALKOVICH GOT INTO WINEMAKING HERE

Backstory aside, it was time to savor the wine.  I was pleased with the taste, though my thinking (and taste buds) did require some adjustment. Over the years, I’ve been bombarded so heavily by rock-ribbed Oregon Pinot Noirs, that I simply had to shed the narrowest of expectations. I found the LQLC to be much more leathery, almost musty, enveloped by tannins. I should also note this wine opened up beautifully after about 30 minutes. Opening and drinking a fresh pour is rushing an experience that demands patience. Let it breathe.

The price of $29 is reasonable. But it will discourage some buyers. Frankly, while I enjoyed the opportunity to taste and enjoy the LQLC Pinto Noir.  However, for all other factors, I would not pay the bottle price given so many other interesting and exquisite French reds that are equally affordable and tend to conform to my personal tastes and biases. In other words, this is a crowded space, fiercely competitive. This isn’t a rejection of LQLC. Not at all.  This wine is a great story and we have to admire Malkovich and Peyran for their love and dedication. So, it’s worth trying. But I’m not rushing out to buy it by the case.

Drinking Les Quelles de la Coste isn’t a Dangerous Liaison. Its grapes aren’t from The Killing Fields. Rather, LQLC is more like tasting John Malkovich and sharing his love of life.

Grading the 2018 Les Quelles de la Coste Pinot Noir:

Price:  $28-30

Alc. Content:  14 pct.

Presentation: 6/10

Taste: 7/10

Originality: 8/10

Value: 3/10

Overall Grade: 6/10

Note: Thanks to Bruce Frank for making this review possible. Bruce orders wine regularly and wanted to share the experience, so he sent me nearly identical duplicates. This unreciprocated generosity gives me a unique chance to try new wines and sample winemakers I wouldn’t normally pay for on my own. Thanks to Bruce for this wonderful gift of knowledge….and the gift of wine!