SAYING GOODBYE TO TONY
When I moved to Las Vegas in 2002, there were four Tony Roma’s restaurant locations spread all over town. I tried them all–many, many times.
Tony Roma’s wasn’t just a good place to eat. It was a meeting destination, err make that a “meating” destination. It always was reliable. It was a spot that most people could agree on, at least it was back then. And there always seemed to be a wait at the door, the sure sign of good food.
Tony Roma’s initially started out in Miami, and by 1972 the chain had opened up it’s first Las Vegas location. No one would call it fine dining or anything fancy. And the spartan surroundings resembled a Denny’s more than a luxury steakhouse. TR’s wasn’t destined to win any Michelin stars. But, it was — affordable. Half rack of ribs was around $20 (back then). Full rack cost $22. So, for just $2 more, you got twice as many ribs. Plus two sides.
As for memorable meals–I’ve lost count. The food wasn’t particularly memorable. It was pretty much always the same, which is what we all expected. Here in Las Vegas, I remember dinners from nearly 30 years ago:
— Stu Ungar and Mike Sexton and I went to the Tony Roma’s on E. Sahara about a month before Ungar’s death.
— That same location was where the real car explosion happened back in the 1980s, when Lefty Rosenthal’s Cadillac blew up in an assassination attempt (featured in the movie “Casino”).
— When I worked as the PR Director for Binion’s Horseshoe, I often ate in our steakhouse. But the ribs across the street at Tony Roma’s in the Fremont were a special treat where I went with friends all the time. I must have enjoyed 60-70 meals at that flagship location.
— Tony Roma’s used to have a spot at the old Stardust. Again, this was the restaurant that was really tied to the “old” Las Vegas. Those were the good times when Friday nights included dinner at TR’s, a free radio show and handicapping seminar with weekly picks during NFL season inside the sportsbook, where we naturally also put in a few bets.
— Tony Roma’s even opened a location closer where I live on the west side of Las Vegas. This store never got the crowds of the other spots, so they began running Happy Hour specials.
— The last time we went to a Tony Roma’s was back in February. But we made the mistake of going to the Fremont location (which by then was the only one left in Las Vegas) and we showed up at 5 pm when they opened and the line was out the door and around the block. Somebody told me this was a daily thing because TR’s offered an early prime rib special and every grizzled local in the city must have gone there at least once a week. We looked at the line with perhaps 150 people, and said fuck it. We left. Reminds me of the old line — “nobody goes to that restaurant anymore, it’s too crowded.”
I kinda’ wish I’d stuck it out and dined one last time at Tony Roma’s. Had I know that final store would close, as they did last month, I’d have paid my respects. In fact, I didn’t know until very recently that the TR’s had closed. That idea seemed unthinkable. I mean, it was packed every night. There was always a wait. Naturally, a “wait” naturally meant many bored diners wandered over the video poker machines, or the pit, or hit the sportsbook — just steps away. I’m sure I’m not alone when I say I had quite a few $250 rib dinners at the Fremont Casino Tony Roma’s. But hey, I did get to enjoy the full rack. Oh, and damn the Phillies.
I don’t get it. I don’t understand why a no-frills casino downtown would want to lose a people magnet like Tony Roma’s. There’s one report the casino wants to expand the fancy restaurant next door, so they’ll knock down a few walls. The very last thing this city needs is another snooty high-dollar steakhouse.
I do miss the golden days when we could pull right up into the Fremont, complimentary valet the car inside their garage for a $3 tip, make a sports bet, enjoy a giant margarita, and two people could eat and leave happy and full. It was a reason to go downtown, and sadly there are far fewer and fewer reasons each time I read the news and see a story like this one.
Good article here, worth reading — and remembering. CLICK HERE
Bye Tony, thanks for the memories.