Review: Randy’s Donuts (Las Vegas)

 

 

 

Even if you don’t know the name “Randy’s Donuts,” you’ve probably still seen the gigantic marquis atop each of their donut shops in Los Angeles.

Flying out of LAX, the smog is too thick to see the “Hollywood” sign off in the distance. But that monster cement donut perched upon the rooftop on West Manchester Blvd. in Inglewood -since 1953 when the flagship store initially opened- remains a quirky LA institution all these years later and is still an irresistible 24/7 temptation. That might be the most famous donut in America — and maybe even the world.

Now, Randy’s Donuts is expanding beyond SoCal. Randy’s just opened their first store in Las Vegas a few months ago, located on Rainbow Blvd. just north of Sahara. There’s no giant donut on the roof (not yet). And there might not be any reason to hoist one up since everybody here already seems to know about Randy’s, that is, judging by the booming business they’ve become the instant the doors swung open. This likely has something to do with hoards of Angelinos now living in Las Vegas. Here’s another theory: it might also be because these donuts are fucking fantastic.

On my first visit a few weeks ago, the lines were so long that I left disappointed and empty-handed. The walk-in line stretched out the front door and was perhaps 35-40 people long. The drive-thru had at least two dozen cars waiting and idling in temptation. Oh, and this was at 2:30 in the afternoon. Who in the hell eats donuts in the middle of the day?

I gave up.

Randy’s has announced ambitious plans to open 7 new stores in Las Vegas within the next few years. That will certainly help to reduce the long lines and waiting times at what remains their single local location. It could also introduce many Las Vegans to what a really great and properly made donut *should* taste like and crash the farce fraud that is Krispy Creme, Winchells, and Dunkin Donuts. Those aren’t donuts. They’re garbage.

If “curiosity is insubordination in its purest form,” my donut rebellion continued a few weeks later.  At around 5 pm, I was running an errand and passed by Randy’s Donuts on Rainbow. Who eats donuts at 5 in the afternoon? Umm.  Oh, joy! There were no lines! After nearly getting into a wreck crisscrossing three lanes of traffic and making an illegal U-Turn, I darted into the parking lot. I decided to rush inside to see the donuts in person and pack a box. A dirty dozen of delicacies.

Unfortunately, there was a proper explanation as to why the lines were gone and customers had vanished. By 5 pm, Randy’s had “sold out” of most of their stock. All that remained in the glass case were some buttermilk donut holes and crullers. Who the hell eats crullers?

Well, I ended up getting a bag and wolfed down the buttermilk donut holes while driving home. Marieta got stuck with the crullers.

Okay, so I ate one cruller. It was pretty damned good. Okay, two crullers. But that’s it.

Turns out, Randy’s Donuts has a policy that the store stays open until all the stock is sold. So, if you arrive at 9 am, expect lines as long as a showroom on the Las Vegas Strip. If you arrive at 3 pm, you may get inside much quicker, but half the stock will be done. If you arrive at 5 pm, you’ll be staring at empty shelves and a couple of crullers.

On Tuesday, the third time was a charm. Call it the moment of Shangrila. Perhaps the novelty has worn off just a little after a few months. We finally got inside and got to pick real donuts. Peering through the long glass counter, there’s not much that seems different from any other popular donut place. Hey, glazed donuts kinda’ all look the same. Pink Box tries to make their donuts more of a dessert item, with fancy frosting and colorful sprinkly decorations, but I’ve always thought they were way overrated. What I wanted was a REAL FUCKING FRESH YEAST DONUT. That’s it. Is that too much to ask for?

Man o’ man, did Randy’s Donuts deliver! Describing the texture and taste of a simple freshly-made yeasty glazed donut is like dancing to architecture. It’s a bit problematic. But there’s a unique freshness to Randy’s, a perfect balance between sweet and course, a smell that reminds you of mother’s kitchen, and authenticity that it’s the real deal. Randy’s delivers taste.

Now two days later, we still had a few donuts left in the box of a dozen. These donuts won’t last two days, will they? Hell, after 8 hours, the shitty donuts as WInchells and Dunkin already taste stale. How can these freshly-made donuts taste good and still be airy 48 hours later?

Randy’s nailed it. This morning, those two stray donuts in the box were every bit as good as a few days ago when they rolled off the assembly line. Slightly crusty on the outside, as air had begun to harden the glazed shell. But the slight crunch was intoxicating. I told Marieta — “these donuts are amazing, I’m going to write and post a review.” She said, “do it.”

So, here’s my review.

Randy’s Donuts: A+

Now, please open up more stores!

VISIT RANDY’S DONUTS WEBSITE HERE